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I went to the gun show in Fort Walton Beach, FL today and I noticed that it was a lot less crowded. Not near the volume of gun sales I've seen since You Know Who was elected. Most of the crowds were around the ammo and reloading supply vendors. I did see several way over-priced carbines (minimum $695 for a rebuilt Underwood to $1100 for a correct Rock-Ola). No primers or .30 carbine from the big ammo sellers but I did luck out at one of the smaller tables. The two guys there had a ton of Winchester .30 carbine at $20.00 for a box of 50. I bought 20 boxes and would have bought more if I had the $$. At least I can keep shooting for a little while. :D
 

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$1100 for an all correct Rock-Ola isn't high. Its a pretty typical price. And the Underwood isn't all that high for a gunshow price.
 

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[color=#000080]I was able to grab 500 rds of 30cal at Walmart....at 8am for 14.97 a box still in the plactic bag in my garage and got 500 round of 9mm at $8.87 same morning. The guy said he gets shipments and its gone that day. 22 cal, bricks are gone as fast. Fox news had a lil bleep last week on the ammo and gun rush..........Obamma is helping the gun sales and ammo depletion. All it takes is a rush at the FFL's to get our names and addresses...............[/color]
 

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I'm new around here but I have Ball ammo I got around 15 years ago, And I've loaded up over 500 rounds of hollow point.

I also cast and copper plate my own bullets and that is a great way to go.

Paul
 

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From Cheaper Than Dirt (Also listed in their new catalog.) TulAmmo is also offering M1 Carbine ammunition, $250 or so for 1000 rounds:

TulAmmo .30 Carbine Full Metal Jacket, 110 Grain, 1990 fps, 1000 Round Bulk Case,TA301110

There are also a couple hollow point loads now, for hunting or home defense:

Hornady Manufacturing Company :: Ammunition :: Rifle :: Choose by Caliber :: 30 Carbine :: 30 M1 CARBINE 110 GR FTX Critical Defense®

Ammo .30 Carbine Winchester Super-X 110 Grain HSP 1790 fps 50 Round Box X30M1

Not trying to advertise for anyone, feel free to price and look around. Nice to see the spectrum being covered by the ammunition makers.
 

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Warning!

Tula ammo is a poor performer. The steel case will eventually damage and break your rifle's extractor.

Be advised.
 

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I've tried Tula in 9mm, .45, and .30 carbine and I have ZERO complaints. Steel cased ammunition has been used outside the US for at least a century, and by some miracle all those guns have managed to survive.

I hope the rumors of steel case persist though, it will keep prices down.
 

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A friend of mine had some wolf .223 with steel cases. I noticed it was boxer primed. I decided to try to reload it just for grins and giggles. I was able to reload it 5 times before the case got to the point I couldn't do it anymore.
 

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A friend of mine had some wolf .223 with steel cases. I noticed it was boxer primed. I decided to try to reload it just for grins and giggles. I was able to reload it 5 times before the case got to the point I couldn't do it anymore.
Yes steel case is reloadable if you're willing to use the can opener and pull Berdan primers. I did it with 7.62x39 back in the early '80's when it wasn't available. I had literally one of the very first Chinese AK's to hit the US because I worked for the first company who brought them in. But it was almost 9 months from the time I got the AK before all the cheap Chinese ammo came in. So I bought single rounds from collectors at gun shows, Czech ammo was the most common, but I had a few Russian rounds and a couple rounds of Chinese. In all it cost me nearly $100 to fill up a magazine the first time. I reloaded first with bullets sources out of Finland for the Russian round, but that got too expensive really quick. After that I loaded with 110 grain soft points (Hornady spire points), the .30 cal varmint bullet; they did not shoot well, but it went bang and I could hit a target at 100 yards. It gave me the impression that the AK was very inaccurate. But when the Chinese stuff came in, my Norinco and I could hit an IPSC with regularity at 500m. Not a tack driver, but clearly capable of doing what it needed to do.

I don't recall, but I think I got 5 or 6 loads out of each case as well. I didn't shoot the AK very much because of the ammo situation. I'll bet I bugged my boss every day about when that ammo would clear customs.
 

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The first AK I got was one of the Steyr Maadi imports. The only ammo I could find was some Norma at a dollar around. I was very careful with the brass. Then I found some Boxer brass with no head stamp at a gun show. The seller told me it was made for covert ops in SE Asia. I don't know if that's true but it was good brass.
 

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A question about extractors and steel cased ammo asked via PM. I'm posting just in case others are wondering the same, because I hear exactly what the questioner asked quite often.

Question
But I have concerns about steel cases and the arm's extractor. If the steel case which doesn't expand as well as does brass in chambers, thus permitting "blowby" into the rest of the rifle.

If the steel cases are soft, I can't see how they would break the extractor. I keep seeing You Tube posters telling of how Tulammo accomplished this. It doesn't make much sense.


Answer
The extractor on the M1 Carbine is a weak point and it's the most common broken part (with a cracked bolt locking lug being #2). I would say that someone who experiences a broken extractor and was shooting steel cased ammo, just jumped to the ammunition as the culprit, rather than realizing the extractor on their rifle is 75 years old.

And if the steel case doesn't expand as much as brass, stop and think. Wouldn't that mean it's easier on the extractor since it has less grip on the chamber walls?

Truth be told, the extractor on an M1 Carbine really doesn't do much and most of the time isn't needed at all. When my extractor went on my carbine, I had one stovepipe in a 15 round magazine. It was the first time my rifle had ever had a malfunction at all; I was stunned. When it happened again, I started wondering what the heck was up. I initially thought it was my gas piston coming loose, but when I disassembled the rifle I noticed the extractor was gone, just the post remained. I put it all back together and continued shooting, experiencing one stovepipe per 15 round magazine like clockwork. That's pretty impressive.

And the reason for that is the sharply tapered case (that's also the reason why bolt lugs break). The case is pushing back on the bolt. The only thing the extractor really does on an M1 Carbine is hold the cartridge against the bolt face until the round clears the chamber. And it does extract when the chamber gets good and filthy.
 

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Mr Gibson

I thank you from the bottom of my heart. I can't even begin to tell you how much that sets my mind at ease.
 

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Kevin: not trying to be a smartass, but genuinely curious about the mechanics. If the extractor's not doing much work, why does it frequently break? Shouldn't it be the laid-back, Maynard G. Krebs of the carbine world?
 

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Kevin: not trying to be a smartass, but genuinely curious about the mechanics. If the extractor's not doing much work, why does it frequently break? Shouldn't it be the laid-back, Maynard G. Krebs of the carbine world?
Well eventually your chamber will get dirty, and then it has to work. It breaks because while it's a robust extractor from the standpoint of how much purchase it has on the cartridge, where the post goes into the bolt is pretty thin and will eventually fail from fatigue. Oh, and the fact that most Carbine extractors are pushing 80 years old, and have had God knows how many rounds before they came into our possession. But on the positive side, about 6 months ago I replaced an extractor on a Carbine with a brand new in the wrap GI extractor for $12.00...gotta love the M1 Carbine.
 

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Probably the best explanation is that the steel case does not contract as much nor as quickly as a brass case so when the bolt tries to pull out the case before the case has fully contracted, there is a lot of resistance. With the extractor being the weakest link, it gives and chips the thin edge. As Kevin points out, there are fewer problems if the chamber is completely clean and there are no rough spots. As the chamber gets dirty, resistance to the extraction becomes greater and damage can occur. (not really a jr. member. Better known as jimb16)
 

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Probably the best explanation is that the steel case does not contract as much nor as quickly as a brass case so when the bolt tries to pull out the case before the case has fully contracted, there is a lot of resistance. With the extractor being the weakest link, it gives and chips the thin edge. As Kevin points out, there are fewer problems if the chamber is completely clean and there are no rough spots. As the chamber gets dirty, resistance to the extraction becomes greater and damage can occur. (not really a jr. member. Better known as jimb16)
That certainly could be.
 

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And if the steel case doesn't expand as much as brass, stop and think. Wouldn't that mean it's easier on the extractor since it has less grip on the chamber walls?
Probably the best explanation is that the steel case does not contract as much nor as quickly as a brass case so when the bolt tries to pull out the case before the case has fully contracted, there is a lot of resistance.
You guys work this out and get back to us.
 
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