Gun Hub Forums banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As you all know, if I don't know how to do something I'm not afraid to ask. So, I done ramp-jobs on steel frame 1911s but never on an alloy-frame gun like my Pro Carry. Can you ramp an alloy-frame? If so, what's the best way to proceed?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,055 Posts
Why would you want to?

I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I haven't seen a gun made in the last 20 years or so that NEEDED one.

As a practical matter it would be a bad idea because the anodizing applied to alloy frames is substantially harder than the base metal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Charlie, reason I asked is that the bulk of my reloading is with cast bullets and it's having trouble feeding them. I was hoping to be able to lightly polish it but, I didn't realize about the anodizing. Thanks.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,173 Posts
Charlie's right--go through that anodizing and it's possible for hardball to dent the alloy underneath.

If the ramp is rough, you MIGHT try polishing it slightly with something like #1000, #1500 or #2000 grit sandpaper (found in the paint section of auto supply stores) and/or a mild abrasive such as Wright's Silver Cream, available in the housewares section of Walmart.

DON'T go at it with files, stones, sandpapers under 600 grit, or power tools of any kind.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,055 Posts
what kind of cast bullets? what kind of stoppage?

I would expect them to feed better than jackets just because they are soft. 99% of the .45 I shoot- which is a bunch- is with 200 gr. LSWC and they work in everything although few are really stock.


Unless there is a visible point of interference on the ramp my guess is there is something else going on.

With guns that are really set up sometimes the bullet doesn't touch the ramp anyhow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Charlie, my load uses a Vance 230gr.RNL bullet. They're stopping partway up the ramp. I load these exactly the same way as I do the FMJs, same case-length, same oal, same crimp. The FMJs feed, these don't. I don't know if it makes a difference but, I'm using Kimber magazines. Does the same thing in all three. all my Wolff Seven-rounders and McCormicks were in the gunsafe.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,055 Posts
:? :?

I don't agree with Snake on any polishing even with the finest grit because the coating is very thin. Otherwise polishing would be the first thing to try.

Is there any chance that the barrel ramp is extending into the magazine well? That could slow the feeding down.

Weak recoil spring?

With the gun clean you should be able to see where the bullet touches and that might be a clue.

Magazines are a remote possibility but I've always had good luck with Kimber's, but almost everything I shoot is full size.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,543 Posts
If you can find a contrasting color magic marker, color your feed ramp and check for contact. FWIW, I once had a customer bring in a Combat Commander whose barrel lacked a feed ramp. Despite that, it functioned flawlessly.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,173 Posts
Charlie Petty said:
:? :?

I don't agree with Snake on any polishing even with the finest grit because the coating is very thin. Otherwise polishing would be the first thing to try.
I once (twice, actually) polished off all the finish from a Fed Ord lightweight frame to get a bright (to match SS slide) gun. It was a lot of work, starting with 320 grit and working down through #600 and then Flitz. The anodizing was much thicker and tougher than I expected.

Maybe my definition of "polish" is a little different from yours. I routinely polish one to two thin layers of enamel paint on models, to get a high gloss, without breaking through to the bare plastic.

Couple years ago I had to modify a cheap Chinese M1913 alloy base to make it work with the optic I wanted to use. That stuff was TOUGH! My file darn near didn't cut it! But when I got the topcoat off, the alloy underneath filed away just fine. :wink:

In polishing the feed ramp on OP's gun, I wouldn't try to polish through to the lowest spots for a high, smooth gloss; I'd just polish to knock any tiny high points off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Charlie, Snake, I just got word that my new Canon digital shipped. As soon as I get it I'll take pics of the ramp and throat. There are marks from the FMJ noses, this may tell you something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Charlie, finally got my camera. Here's some pics of the chamber. gotta figure out how to light up better.




Here's a pic of the Kimber. Check out the grips Charlie!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,173 Posts
1. Take the slide off.

2. Does your camera have a macro setting? If so, turn it on.

3. When taking the pic, press the button down slowly. This will let it auto-focus. You might be able to hear it doing so, and/or see the pic sharpen on the screen. Don't shoot till it's focused on the ramp.

4. If you don't have macro, it can sometimes work well the other way--back off, hit your zoom to enlarge. You'll have to light the ramp up somehow to do this. Again, let the thing auto-focus before you snap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Okay Snake, I'll try that. New camera. UPS guy dropped it off about one hour ago. It's got more zoom and it focuses a little differently than my other one did. Thanks for the pointers. I was trying to snap some so you guys could see the ramp/throat relationship. It's fitted right, 1/32nd. of an inch between the ramp and the base of the throat.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,173 Posts
Retmsgt. said:
I was trying to snap some so you guys could see the ramp/throat relationship. It's fitted right, 1/32nd. of an inch between the ramp and the base of the throat.
We don't care about that. Your original question and the matter under discussion is polishing the ramp portion of the frame. Sounds like the ramp/barrel relationship is good, so leave the barrel out of the pic for better clarity (and take the slide off).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,055 Posts
I would like to see a sharp photo showing the relation of the barrel ramp to the frame in addition to the condition of the frame's ramp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Okay, gonna do it tomorrow outside so I can get some good lighting. Hope you liked those USAF grips Charlie.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,055 Posts
Sure did... I was wondering why the photo of the gun was there until I saw them :thumbsup:

One of my favorite photo tricks is to use a Surefire light to highlight important stuff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
First pic is the one snake requested, second is with the barrel on with the slide-release holding in. Whatever is seen was factory or what the FMJs have smoothed. I haven't touched it yet.


 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,173 Posts
Good pics. MUCH better! :thumbsup:

Looks to me like someone has already polished the ramp--and with a motor tool, too. :evil:

Go up the ramp slowly with your fingernail or a toothpick or something of that kind. Can you feel any glitches or hitches or roughness along the way?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Just checked Snake, smooth as a baby's bottom. I tried with both my little fingernail and a wooden-handled Q-tip. Checked it with a magnifying glass too. some real faint side to side lines. Think they used a Dremel with a impregnated rubber bullet-tip on it. Saw marks just like them once on a Bubba'd feedramp in a SA. Wallowed the whole thing out. Ruined the frame. Some Kitchen-table gunsmith buddy of the owner.
but, it's smooth, no dips, catches or roughness at all. If you look at the pic though, something I noticed, the top of the ramp is abrupt, it's not blended in. I always rounded the lip a little when I ramped a gun. Course, I'm talking about steel frames. These alloy-frames scare me.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top