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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A slimmed down Boyd's stock
1 coat of BLO
2-3 coats of Chestnut Ridge stain (50/50 alcohol)
1 coat of BLO

What do you think? I can't decide whether I like it. It is BOLD though! Late afternoon sun probably accentuates the red.



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I spent several hours with 80 grit sandpaper. I would have gone with files, but it's just tough to clamp those handguards well without cracking them.

Will more BLO at this point make it redder or browner? Or just darker?

I'm have a hard time deciding between:
1. a little dark brown stain
or
2. Another coat of BLO
or
3. Keep it as is and hit it with pure Tung Oil.
 

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Think it looks pretty sharp as is, I'd leave it for now as I think it will grow on you. Not your run of the mill for sure. :)
 

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VERY cool Pics 30~ better than over thar' at our other shared place!

I say leave as-is! She's a beaut. Is that one of the 5.4's?
 

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Boy, that's RED .30cal.!!! Looks like a Gibson cherrywood SG!!!!!

Wait a minute...you're trying to warn people aren't you????
 

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pix don't work for me, but if it's too red, use acetone and alcohol to strip the finish and color down some, put on another thin coat of oil, let dry, and apply fiebing's dark brown (diluted, of course).

I have done it several times.

some wood shows more red than other does. boyd's sapwood is especially bad.

pix finally came up for me - leave it alone. looks nice!
 

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I like it. :D

I did a '03 c-stock in mahogony and it is reddish brown.

I would leave your stock as is it'll probably turn darker with a little age. You can always redo it later. Just like a woman would dye her hair another color. :)
 

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I think your wood looks really nice.

Here's something I've done a couple times. After the stain and a couple applications of BLO, put on 2 applications of Minwax Wipe On Poly(satin). The Wipe On is put on in very thin coats. Gives a bit more protection without the poly look.

Here's one I did that way. Nice contrast to the Dane Finishless, I mean Woodless. 8)
[IMG=left]http://www.fototime.com/A62A551F0C2D6F7/standard.jpg[/IMG]
 

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Here's a hint, I used Minwax #209 Special Walnut on a DGR Stockset. Two coats right outta the can, buffed each coat with 0000 after drying then, wiped down with cheesecloth, then three coats of Minwax Tung-Oil finish, buffing with cheesecloth twenty minutes after applying and buffing each coat with 0000 to knock down shine. Came out great with a nice light hint of red in it!
 

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Chestnut Ridge Military Stain

Hello, so did you use BLO first, then Chestnut Ridge Stain, then BLO again?
I like your color. I am receiving a Boyd Stock and I have Chestnut Ridge Stain.
What other recommendations do you have?

Thank you
James
 

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30caliber,

While I do LIKE the looks of your Garand (I'm one of "the Garandaholics" of the forum.), may I suggest that IF/WHEN that you do another refinishing that you NOT use BLO at all & use RAW linseed oil instead?

There is much truth to the saying, " BLO forms a skin; raw soaks right in."

Many Garand stocks are now nearly 75 years old, are DRIED OUT & NEED the "nourishment" of raw oil deep INSIDE the stock.
(For example, my treasured Danish Naval Infantry-marked Copenhagen Arsenal rebuild on a 1942 SA receiver was re-stocked about 1950 in European beech & a through "soaking" with Corcoran shoe dye & raw linseed oil, applied with a sponge, gave it a rich look & depth of finish that I could never have gotten with BLO.)

YES using raw linseed oil to refinish stocks is a SLOWER process to complete than using BLO but it is superior in every way to using tung oil or BLO.
(Btw, I "discovered" using raw oil for gunstocks from an old rebuilder of antique wood boat hulls, who literally used a FOOR MOP to apply raw linseed oil to 50-100 year old boat parts.)

just my OPINIONS, sw
 

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CaptainGyro,

ImVho, it makes NO difference if it's an old thread, if one of our junior members needs help. = Even EOF like me were once "newbies".

Fwiw, I truly MISS some of our (now departed) "antique members" of a decade ago.

just my opinion, sw
 
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