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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. I am trying to match up some M1 wood to a certain stock, and while I found a front handguard with a close woodgrain pattern, the rear of it is different from my others. What is the one in the center supposed to be for, and why does it have the two screw holes where the others do not? Thanks.

[IMG=left]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i78/JTravis1964/gunbroker/DSC01704.jpg[/IMG]
 

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It came off of a rifle that had been match configured. The front hand guard is attached to the barrel band using screws and glue (or bedding compound). You can also see the glue in your picture.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Aaaah; I see. So those are just a bedding compound, and they should pop off without any problems, then. Thank you, Jeff.
 

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So those are just a bedding compound, and they should pop off without any problems, then. Thank you, Jeff.
Ah..... don't think so.

If you attempt to "pop off" those patches of epoxy you should expect wood to come with them, or you'll split the wood back into the main body of the handguard.

I certainly would not try it......

Who knows... you might get lucky though.

If I just HAD to get the glue off, I'd very carefully grind it away with a small Dremel grinding stone. Any attempt to force the glue off is bound to damage the wood in some way.

Just my two bits,

Swampy

Garands forever
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, Swampy, let me ask you this, then- what is involved with the rest of this mod to use this wood as sits? I assume this is done to try to get nearer to free floating the barrel, although for the life of me I can't see how you could free float a barrel with a gac cylinder and op rod dangling off the end of it, and the handguards perched off the center mount. But I don't want to FUBAR the wood, so what else does this involve (and are the results worth the effort in improved accuracy)? Thanks.
 

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joker,

Doing the "front end work" on an M1 involves attaching the rear of the front HG to the lower band with screws and epoxy, ala what you have in hand, floating the front HG ferrule, and floating the rear ring of the gas cylinder.

The front HG ferrule must be relieved about .020" all around the barrel opening to float it from touching the barrel, holes drilled through the lower band, then screws put in (counter-sunk into the lower band face.) and epoxied for added hold. Note that this makes the front HG very fragile... or at least it's accuracy advantage is fragile, and you can NEVER, NEVER, NEVER again pick the rifle up by the front HG. Doing so risks breaking the glue-screw joint (It's pretty fragile at best.) so that the HG now rattles against the barrel at the front end, destroying the accuracy you tried for in the first place...... Now you get to dis-assemble and start over.

To ensure non-movement of the unitized lower band / HG unit you need to make punch marks all arond the lower bands seating ring on the barrel so that it stays put and does not slide or rotate on the barrel. The unit will have to be driven on to the barrel very carefully...... or the lower band driven on then the screws and epoxy and HG put in place. Either way, getting it back off without destroying the glue joint is almost an impossible exercise, so be sure it's done right the first time.

Using your HG "as is" would involve putting screw holes in a lower band in the EXACT same positions as the lower band your HG came off of, then re-epoxying it together as you assemble it.

Really, down to brass tacks.... unless you are doing a "full up" Match Grade build.... with full stock pressure bedding, match barrel, and match sights.... unitizing the front end is probably not going to be worth the extra effort involved with setting it up and with the new care in handling with which the rifle must now be treated.

You makes your decision... pays your money... then takes what you gits.....

Just my 2 bits,
Swampy

Garands forever
 
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