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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,:help:
New member here looking for some Help with my Rem 552 rimfire,
Been a great little gun for a while but past few times its now started jamming every 4th or 5th shot,
When it does jam it picks up the round only part way and the action comes forward on the side of the brass instead of the end and it bends the round jamming it at a 45 degree angle,
This is a PITA as I have to strip the rifle every time to clear it.
A local smith had a look at it and reckoned it was because the action was worn,said he couldn,t fix it.
So I was wondering if anyone has had this problem and could suggest a fix.
Looking online I did find a comment regards to fitting a new action spring as the old one may be weak??.
Alternatively can anyone suggest a Mod to make it a straight pull single shot instead of semi-auto.
Thanks in advance for any assistance

3,882 Posts

IF it was me who had that problem, I would be on the phone to Remington. = Remington is very good at dealing with such problems.

I once sent a Nylon 66 back to Remington, that a drunk had kicked into a campfire, with a note explaining what had happened , asking that the rifle be repaired if possible & to send me a repair bill. = Being in a campfire is NOT "fair wear & tear".

A few days later, I got the unrepaired rifle back with a NEW rifle in the same box & a repair order marked: UNREPAIRABLE & NO CHARGE.

yours, sw

4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Yeah thanks for the suggestion,,
If I lived in the US that would be a great option,but as I live in the UK not possible I,m afraid.
Even finding spare parts is pretty tricky and a whole lot more expensive but I would love to be able to make it usable again even as a straight pull,rather than scrap it..
I can get parts for it off Brownells but do not want to spend a fortune on a $50 dollar rifle,
Thanks for your input though it is good to know Remington have good customer service,

1,433 Posts
It can be hard to trouble shoot firearms, especially when we can't seer them.

Things to try are #1, give the action a good deep cleaning and fresh lubricant.
Often this is all that's needed to restore function.

#2. Try different ammo. Different brand and different type.

Use a brush to thoroughly scrub the chamber.
Sometimes the problem with miss-feeds is actually the previous cartridge case not extracting easily and slowing the action.
I recommend using an AR-15 bore brush as a chamber brush for the .22LR.
The .233-5.56 brush is larger and much stiffer then a .22LR bore brush.
Just push the brush in until it's fully in the chamber then rotate the brush a few times, pull out and repeat a couple of times.
This should remove all leading and carbon fouling.

You might try a new recoil spring, but that's rather a long shot.

Here's a schematic for the Remington 552.

Here's the owner's manual showing disassembly:

You might also get better help by posting on "Rimfire Central". That's where the real .22LR experts hang out. Possibly they will know what to do to correct the problem. - Rimfire Community!

1,727 Posts
Although it sounds trite and you've probably already tried it, I'd like to second the suggestion of a thorough field strip and cleaning. I had a Marlin Model 60 that was exhibiting the same behavior (OK, behaviour) and once I got it disassembled I couldn't believe how much shaved lead had worked it's way into nooks and crevices that were barely visible. I ended up using dental picks to get some of it out. But once the old girl was reassembled she danced like a teenager again.

As stated above, pay special attention to the chamber. Fouling there can grip the spent case so that the extractor has to pull extra hard to break it free. That resistance has the effect of retarding the bolt travel and can result in exactly the misfeeds you're experiencing.

Let us know how it goes.

4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Guys, Thanks for the advice, much of it I have already tried without success unfortunately,:confused:
I have tried many different ammo brands/velocities with no luck,
I have stripped and cleaned many times again without luck,Infact the smith that looked at it reckoned I had "overcleaned" it causing wear on the action,
Havent scrubbed out the chamber yet which I will try tomorrow,
I will take a look over on Rimfire central too,
Thanks again for the tips,will let you know how I get on.

4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
sorry its been so long.

Well guys after many cleanings polishings and various springs replaced I finally got the old girl working again.
She is shooting good giving me cloverleaf groups at 50 yds and using CCI MiniMags I can run 150 to 200 rounds thru her before she starts getting sticky and tempremental.
For general cleaning I pull the tigger action drop in a sonic cleaner for 10 minutes then dry off with hot air gun and then oil,clean rest as normal and everything is going well,
Many thanks again.

1 Posts
Remington 552 speedmaster

Nice to see another person with an old 552 mine has been great since I got it around 1966 the only problem I have is if it gets too fouled it wants to go full auto which can be fun but tends to alarm other nearby shooters

40 Posts
This was my first hand experence with the 1971 Remington 552 jam-O-matic.
Im posting this so others may learn from my novice mistakes.
I have no gunsmithing training.
Just a novice gun tinker.

I just got this older remington 552 speedmaster earlier today and its missing the rear sight, barrel stamped W 7
Quick Google check of Remington mfg letter stamps puts this mfg July 1971?
The Numrich parts schematic rear sights only shows two types, neither of which look like what Im looking at on this particular rifle.
The gun was given to a fellow (the local gun tinker) because it wont feed, and he robbed the sight off it and gave me the rifle, from the looks of it, was someones old camp gun (NW Alaska has quite a few of those beat to heck but not shot that much) that got a face lift, stock looks like itd been sanded and finished and metal all looks like was spray painted (esp where the sight used to be) there is powder residue (soot) inside the spent case deflector so it must have developed feeding issue not long after its face lift?
So have to figure out why it wont feed.

I just finished cleaning her out, the lube itd been lubed with mixed with spent powder residue and little glittering metallic crumbs that look allot like Remington Golden bullet plateing.
Lots of crud on bolt and the ejector.
It function tested ok, rounds cycled through the action flawlessly.

Id been gone a week for work and finnaly had a chance to try out the old 552 Saturday afternoon.
That morning all the sight parts were in.
Who woudda thought a single sight screw was $6.90??
And Id had to buy two.

Well Im all jazzed to try it, my transp is down for mx so walked the 1.4 mi to a suitable place to try it and found it had issues.
Chambering the first round went without a hitch.
Pulled the trigger and click, cleared the round and checked it (had a good firing pin dent) chambered the third round and it shot as it should, the fourth round was a dud (striker dented as well) funny how the particular federal rounds I had were not firing.
The 2 rounds out of 7 went off.
the rest was clearing duds and misfeed jams from the action.
The last dud round wouldnt eject after it wouldnt go off.
I brought it home and managed to eject the dud without resorting to a cleaning rod.
All the while we were out there, the mosquitos came out and chewed on us pretty good.
Next time I will bring a couple different brands of New ammo instead of a partial box of mixed rounds, I pulled it appart and looked for something that could be causing it to not fire, double load and jamb and stick a dud.

Weak extractor? Boogered chamber mouth from dry firing, and there are other things to look at but where to begin?

Then I got busy and it sat in the corner gathering dust since then, now its another summer has passed since Id looked inside the 552 Jam-A-Matic.


40 Posts
Im positive it couldnt have been shot so much it could have been worn out, it was a camp gun, Id be surprised if it'd ever shot more than 2000 rounds in its whole life.
So Im thinking its gunk, burrs or something is not assembled correctly . . . just what that may be is the question.

Well everthing seemd to function ok when cycling live rounds through it, the thing is what happens during the firing cycle, acts diffrently, this rifle fireing .22 shorts should cycle the action, the rubber buffer is to soften the recoil of the long rifles.
Im thinking I'll have to study the hammer, sear, disconnector for something that just dont jibe.

All summer That free Remington 552 jam-a-matic had been sitting there in the corner gathering dust and I know to fix its ailemnts its going to involve using my brain, I could just buy new parts till it works but my father always stressed trouble shooting something before foolishy throwing money away.
So I did some googling of Remington 552 jam's and other cycling issues.
60% the forum threads discussed bad ammunition.
In my case I had a mixture different ages of Federal bulk, CCI blazer and Remington Golden.
So was it ammunition? I have my doubts.
For it to choke on almost all of them I suspect its something with the rifle, this ex-camp gun most likely had seen harsh environment but Im skeptical that its worn out, Id be surprised if it'd seen as much rounds through it as a run the mill 552 plinker that chewed thrugh several bricks would have , but what could its ailment be?
Quite a few posts on different forums about nicked up bolt guides , boogered firing pin's with burrs even on the on the hammer, some posts about wobbly hammer causing side binding, still others on dirty and worn sear notch fit, and then there was this one Odd post that seemed to jump out at me.
reguarding a misassembly that can cause all sorts of mayham.

Gun Hub forum post by nctorberson Feb 02, 2014 · reply #4

Quote: 'disconnector is above the small lever that allows hammer to **** before the trigger resets. It must be below it'

That got my attention and now Im all fired up to tear that thing back open to check it again, according to Gun Hub, there was a posted photo but that is only viewable to Gun Hub members.
It'd cool to see that photo, but I think I will just forge ahead with that scant advice and check it out for myself.
I might have to check Brownells .22 rimfire iron to burnish the chamber as its possible dryfiring could have boogered up the rim of the chamber as live rounds cycle through just fine but to have a round stick after the firing pin strikes the case (stuck dud) it just might be one the other issues this rife has to work through.
In the past Ive used a taper punch to clear chamber boogers.

I think I might have to check out Ebay. has Remington service manuals for this model.
NOTE: For some reason they canceled the order and refunded my money.
Some noise about not shipping to NW Alaska.


40 Posts
Well I dropped out that trigger group and gave it another checking, it was really clean, hardly any grunge at all, it looked like it had been torn down for a detailed cleaning.
So anyway Im sitting there looking it over and shifing it this way and that.
Till I felt something odd, a roughness on the tip of the disconnector that rides on the bolt, odd I thought and looked closer and noticed it was rough because the tip of the disconnector was gone!
So I did an image search on the internet and noticed about a quarter the disconnector was not there.
A net order to Numrich should soon fix the disconnector issue.


40 Posts
Well yesterday I dropped out the trigger group and replaced that disconnector.
Funny thing is that stepped pin that holds the disconnector in place is counterbored in a tube rivet fashion & staked in place.

Well using some selected shop tools I managed to drive it out that riveted pin.
Note: this stepped steel pin is staked into a aluminum housing, Remington uses a steel washer to stake the end of the pin against it.
Also noted the end of the disconnector is positioned below the sear.

'Quote: 'disconnector is above the small lever that allows hammer to set before the trigger resets. It must be below it''


40 Posts
Well I took it out a couple days ago.
On loading it with 10 rounds it jammed when cycling the first round onto the chamber.
After clearing the first of many loading jamms, I did get it loaded and it clicked (very light firing pin strike)
It jammed 13 times (fail to feed, jam on entering chamber 45° angle) then had the fail to eject and double feed jam (being cheap I reloaded the cartridges that jammed☆☆), in all 6 light striker-hits, and only two that didnt eventually fire because Id stuck them in a different pocket when unjamming the rounds that didnt want to load.
The bolt was dragging on something pretty bad, a couple rounds Id used my hand to force the bolt forward into battery, a 3 times the bolt did not fully travel back enough to re-set the hammer (lots of drag and burrs)
After I got home, It set for a bit before starting in on it.
I found the ejector was dragging on the bolt pretty bad, the fireing pin movement in the bolt seemed to not be crisp and responsive, it would only move if you pushed on it, you couldnt shake the bolt and get the pin to follow gravity, so I removed the fireing pin retainer pin and used a probe to clean out the ejector inlet on the bolt body, also the firing pin inlet on the bolt body.
I also noticed a ring of compacted carbon on the bolt body face where it butts up to the barrel.
In my hunt for compacted carbon I used a headlamp and looked inside the barrel where the bolt glides.
WOW . . . . WOW . . . . WOW!
Talk about what looks like a dremel tool wonderland!!
All those Remington milled swirls and diviots with their tool marks!
I got in there with my tooth picks and cotton swabs and cleaned the heck outta the dremel tool moguls and hoopties embossed into the inside back end of that barrel.
I did check movement of the firing pin thinking a carbon buildup eventually cause the firing pin to strike light, that in conjunction with sharp edges and mush bur's from the hammer banging on the fireing pin, I dropped out the fireing pin and cleaned the cut it rides in as well as stone off any burrs or high areas on the firing pin.
I did the same with the bolt body inlets that the ejector rides in.
I did stone off some tool marks on the hammer (no where close to the sear notch) just some cleaning till the hammer glid better than when Id started.

☆☆I was reloading dingers because at this time and location we were suffering through a 5 year Obama Era .22 rimfire drought out here in Northwestern Arctic Alaska.
The last and only box of .22 rimfire on store shelves was a $14 50ct box Winchester, target CB's.
NOTE: during the whole Rimfire drought the only rimfires that were on store shelves were $23-28/50ct box .17HMR's


40 Posts
Just 4 days back I took it out to try it again.
Last month Id bought some aluminum .22Lr dummy rounds.
I'd cleaned and polished what I thought needed polishing.
Those rounds cycled through flawlessly by hand.
Once out at the range, the evil dark side surfaced and rubbed my nose in a big steaming ole pile of failure.
I shook 10 rounds of Federal .22r Std velocity, On chambering the first round, I grasped the bolt back and let fly, it hung up on loading.
The nose of the first cartridge didnt rise up and as the bolt came forward the round wedged in there nice n tite, it was no fun holding the bolt handle and using my slotted screw driver blade on my pocket knife, and managed to wriggle it out of there.
The next round took some coaxing to work its way up level in front of the bolt face.
For about 4 rounds it fungled along like that.
Then the 6 rounds cycled through without a hitch.
Reloading the rounds that were troublesome loading before gave me trouble a second time.
As the OTZ mosquitos were out in force, I spent more time swipeing bugs than spending time reloading to get a feel for the rounds not noseing up into the chamber as they should.
The cartridge lifter spring is really stiff.
So Im thinking of pulling the trigger group and studying the lifter closer for function and binding.

40 Posts
Well I pulled it appart tonight, looking for anything odd.
I was looking over the trigger group and did not see anything that should be causing the sort of issues Im encountering.
With the trigger group removed the bolt assembly glides really well when cycled
The bolt still seems like it glides but could be better when its working against the trigger group.
I have to imagine the bolt traveling like it would as its in a firing cycle.
One the things was polishing the bottom the bolt that must contact the hammer and push it down and lock when cocked.
I had some emery cloth and ran it over the surface, eventually the cloth started to glide better.
On a hunch I had my swiss files ready.
The ejector slots on the side of the bolt looked fine.
Yet when I ran one of my swiss files down the slot I immediately noticed a spot that was catching on my file.
A portion of the extractor spring seat was sticking out.
If the bolt is recoiling and the ejector was catching on that spring seat that might just slow things down and cause marginal performance?
Also the cartridge lifter has a nice sharp bur edge that Could possibly slow things down if it rub's on the bolt as it comes back over during recoil.
Its really hard so I stoned off that sharp edge.
One last thing would be to replace the magazine spring, for now I will use a cleaning rod with a patch and clean any old lube scum from the inner mag tube to reduce any drag on the follower, last option would be to give that old spring a little tensile stretch to boost the rounds down to the lifter.
Well I'll just study it some more . . .


40 Posts
Well, I shot it again tonight.
Well . . . . Sorta.
When it shot it was accurate.
Loaded 10 rounds of CCI Blazer .22 Lr
I had some rounds that never went off and when they were ejected they didnt have a hint of a firing pin strike.
Some the rounds chambered and fired, some did not and had a healthy dent where the firing pin smacked it but didnt strike the edge as more to the inside.

One odd thing that happened was each time it fired smoke came from the action, like from the bottom where that dust cover is, even gun smoke came out from the opening where the trigger was, that had me wondering what the heck is this?!
Out of the 10 rounds loaded 7 went off, 3 came home in my pocket.
One wouldnt chamber as it jammed and it messed the cartridge w bent bullet so it wouldnt chamber.
Everything stopped when I had that struck case in the chamber, exteactor kept pulling off the case, I had to use a cleaning rod to knock out that stuck dud case.
I may have to borebrush the chamber.
The only thing I hadnt done yet is put a full set of springs in it.


40 Posts
I shot it last weekend.
Id load 10 rounds and try it.
The first round chambered, fired and cycled the action yet the second try the hammer dropped on a empty chamber, cycle in a fresh round that jammed in cycling a fresh round in chamber, it fired then, then a fail to fire on ejecting encountered a double feed, after about 6 of those it actually fired 4 times as a semiautomatic .22 should!
Then it went back to the same old crap.
Im thinking its got to be old springs.
So Id orderd new bolt return spring and a new magazine spring.
The first and easist was the replacement of the bolt return spring, side by side, the new spring was 1.5" shorter than the old!
A longer old spring would cause cycling problems.

I hadnt gotten to replacing the mag spring yet.
I guess I should have set both old and new action springs next to a yard stick and taken a photo (that hind sight kicking in I guess?)

The gun tinker before me must have streched the bolt return spring thinking it had weakened when the nose was busted off the disconnector and causing troubles.
And if that old camp gun ever sat for any great length of time sitting with a few rounds in the magazine tube that magazine spring might have taken a set over all those years and not push the rounds into the lifter like it should, causing my empty chamber problem.
That and a over powered bolt spring might mess with a cartridge Not feeding.

Fresh out of the package I had a tangled puzzle, untangling the new mag spring.
Well I finally found my small pin punch and started in on drifting out the magazine tube cap pin.
When the old magazine spring was finally out on the bench, I set the new spring along side the old one to check mag spring lengths.
The new spring was more than a tad bit longer almost 14" longer.
Stuffing all that New mag spring back in the magazine was a challange, till I figured how to capture the few coils at a time till, I could stuff it all in.
Like stuffing 7 pounds of crap into a 4 pound container.

Now all I have to do is try it out using live ammo.

40 Posts

Well It has been quite a winter.
In six weeks we had 17 blizzards.
I thought Id hop on my snowmobile and motor out a town to function test the 552.
After a couple detours and finding a out the way place to test the rifle.
I stoked it up with some CCI Blazers.
I Topped up the tube magazine and cycled the action chambering a round.
It fired as it should, the next trigger pull was a metallic click.
I cycled the action thinking it had not chambered a round and had a jam as the live round staydd in the chamber and the next one coming up caused some troubles.
(Extractor issue?)
Shook both out and chambered the next round, it fired, then another click and jam and chambering another it didnt fire either!
The dud rounds were not extracting and the next was plugging the works.
I did get it to fire 2 shots consecutively as a semi-auto should then it went back sometimes firing and jambing.
I picked up the fired rounds and the duds for further study at home.
All the while my daughter was shooting cartridges from the same box in her Keystone Arms Crickett rifle without any problems.

I took photos of the duds and the ones that functioned just fine.

First I think I will try getting it to fire every time a round is chambered.
The fired rounds eject fine, its problematic getting it to eject live rounds that didnt fire.

I dissembled the 552 and looked over the bolt, then removed the firing pin and noticed it had a wierd reverse bow to it.
After a google image search of Rem 552 firing pins I see that it was slightly bent (sorry no photo. forgot)
I got out a axe head to use as a flat metal anvil and a small ballpeen hammer after some tapping was able get the firing pin to look like the Google image. (Earmarked for replacement)
Im thinking how the bow on the fireing pin changed how the pin impacted the case rim, strikeing more away from the rim and its priming compound.
I used the hammer to dress up the fireing pin tip a little and draw it out some lengthing it a tad.
Then used the honeing stone to slick the sides a bit, and dress the tip just a bit.
Reassembled the .22 and drew back the bolt, to me seemed like the bolt didnt fully draw all the way back.
Dissembled and looked at the bolt buffer, the metal insert was.peened and had burrs.
I used a knife hone stone and stoned the burrs off the buffer insert and evened up the buffer surface.

Funny how Id assumed that wierd bend was just the way it was supposed to be.
I would never have imagined a .22 rifle fireing pin would be bent.


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