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Discussion Starter #1
Here's a helpfull little 'Lefty' mod if you shoot with both thumbs forward.Remove most of the end of the Slide-Stop pin. I did it with my shooters, leaving a hump about 1/64th tall in the center. with that you can push the pin out far enough for removal but, you don't run the risk of pushing the Slide-Stop partially out while firing. I've already done this once at the range, very embarrassing.
Here's a pic.


Here's my Rock, I put a small bevel in the Frame-hole on this one. Didn't do it to the Kimber because I can't match the coating on the Aluminum Frame.
 

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I've seen that on quite a few 1911s in the last couple years; it's even coming through on factory "semi-custom" guns, often with the hole countersunk around it a little. The idea is that if you (right-handed) keep your finger out of the guard (as you should), and you place your finger up on the side of the frame, now there's no chance that you'll (under stress) push on the protruding nub of the slide stop and risk tying up the gun when you do go to fire it.

I've never had any problem in this regard, so don't feel it necessary to grind off the end of the slide stop nor weaken the frame by drilling a countersink hole in it. :?
 

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I think you'd have to drill a HUGE countersink hole before you ever weakened it.

I too never touch the slide stop, but this is a lefty mod that makes sense to me and I'll remember it the next time I build a 1911 for a lefty.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Snake, if you look at the leftside of the Slide-Stop pin-hole, you'll probably see a small bevel there. Most guns have them. It's nowhere near enough to weaken the frame.
When I grip the side of my right thumb is directly on the pin, pressing against it. Bad Ju-Ju.
Oh, you also want to slightly round the edge when you cut the pin down so it enters the link easily. All I did was break the edge with some 180 grit then smooth it with the rest of the pinface with 600.
 

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Retmsgt. said:
Snake, if you look at the leftside of the Slide-Stop pin-hole, you'll probably see a small bevel there. Most guns have them. It's nowhere near enough to weaken the frame.
Yes, of course. But some of the ones I've seen on the right side are dished out quite a bit more than that.

I'll concede that it's probably not a strength issue, and we can all get on with our lives, okay? :wink:
 

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Wasn't that a standard mod on early S&W M.39s?

Geoff
Who vaguely remembers not doing it to his own 39-2...I sold that pistol to R. I. Reed, many moons agone.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Snake45 said:
Retmsgt. said:
Snake, if you look at the leftside of the Slide-Stop pin-hole, you'll probably see a small bevel there. Most guns have them. It's nowhere near enough to weaken the frame.
Yes, of course. But some of the ones I've seen on the right side are dished out quite a bit more than that. I'll concede that it's probably not a strength issue, and we can all get on with our lives, okay? :wink:
gotta agree there brother Snake, I've seen some really big countersinks in some myself. :thumbsup:
 

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I figure as long as the slide stop pin is weaker than the frame, it'll fail first, kinda like a fuse.
 

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Snake45 said:
I've seen that on quite a few 1911s in the last couple years; it's even coming through on factory "semi-custom" guns, often with the hole countersunk around it a little. The idea is that if you (right-handed) keep your finger out of the guard (as you should), and you place your finger up on the side of the frame, now there's no chance that you'll (under stress) push on the protruding nub of the slide stop and risk tying up the gun when you do go to fire it.

I've never had any problem in this regard, so don't feel it necessary to grind off the end of the slide stop nor weaken the frame by drilling a countersink hole in it. :?
You remind me of Br'er Mas' "Stress Index", where the tip of the trigger finger is held against the frame, above the trigger guard. This, AIUI, is to avoid the chance of the finger slipping inside the trigger guard if the shooter is startled.
 

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I've seen more than a few guns where the slide stop wanted to come out all by itself. It is surely true that the shooter is a bigger cause but the plunger spring can also be an issue. IIRC at one time there was a little dimple on the slide stop that engaged the plunger for a bit of security. I've also cut one myself.

While I don't have a problem with a small relief I'm not sure it is really needed. If one leaves just a bit of the pin it only takes a little to let one get the pin started.

Tim I don't think I've seen a slide stop break but frames can crack around the hole- usually on high round count guns. For the most part the cracks are benign although owners tend to panic. If you look at newer guns they actuallly have a section of the rail cut out above the slide stop because that was the typical location for a crack to develop. I think Kimber may have been the first to do that.
 

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Charlie Petty said:
Tim I don't think I've seen a slide stop break but frames can crack around the hole- usually on high round count guns. For the most part the cracks are benign although owners tend to panic. If you look at newer guns they actuallly have a section of the rail cut out above the slide stop because that was the typical location for a crack to develop. I think Kimber may have been the first to do that.
I've never experienced nor seen (even a photo) of a broken slide stop but I have read several stories/complaints about same. Not one has ever mentioned where the break occurred. My guess is where the pin part meets the side-lever (for lack of better terms) but I really have no idea. :ehsmile:

I THINK I've seen at least one photo of a frame cracked through the slide stop hole but wasn't certain enough until now to mention it.

As to the rail cut out above the slide stop hole on the left side to ward off a crack there (it can't crack if it's not there at all!), I think the first time I saw that was on the Colt Delta Elite 10mm guns of the '80s.
 

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think the first time I saw that was on the Colt Delta Elite 10mm guns of the '80s.
Totally correct. That just dawned on me and I was on the way to post a correction...

supposedly some of the earliest MIM slide stop pins failed, but I did not see one personally.
 

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FWIW, the original slide stop on my '89 stainless Combat Commander broke at the notch where the magazine follower engaged it. IIRC, it was after a moderate number of rounds.
Would it have been an early MIM part?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've, in all my experiences with these guns, seen one, count-em, one Broken slide-Stop and it was due to an ill-fitted barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This one didn't actually break in two Charlie but, it did crack and bend. BTW, it was a forged part.
 

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shep854 said:
FWIW, the original slide stop on my '89 stainless Combat Commander broke at the notch where the magazine follower engaged it. IIRC, it was after a moderate number of rounds.
Would it have been an early MIM part?
That's where they tend to break, and I'm not sure if anyone makes a MIM slide stop, that part doesn't lend itself well to MIM. When the slide stop's internal tab breaks, then you really have to watch it for walking out. If you place the left thumb over the slide stop, the gun will work normally with the exception of holding open on the last shot.

FWIW, the other places where a 1911 tends to break are below the front of the slide rail at the dust cover, and usually oh horrendously high round guns. And the only other place is the slide rails, but that's only when shot several times with a broken slide, which tends to pull the slide rail off the frame. But to get to this, you're talking crazy numbers, most mere mortals will never give their 1911 those kinds of rounds.
 

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"But to get to this, you're talking crazy numbers, most mere mortals will never give their 1911 those kinds of rounds."--Kevin Gibson
Implying that you're something other than mortal? :wink:
I'm partial to Gary Paul Johnston's take on gun wear; they are made to shoot--if you wear one out, go get another!
 
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