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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do any of you gentlemen have a disassembly layout for the Dan Wesson Model 44HV? Having trouble locating one. Just got a six-inch yesterday and need to tear it down for a reblue.
 

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Retmsgt. said:
Do any of you gentlemen have a disassembly layout for the Dan Wesson Model 44HV? Having trouble locating one. Just got a six-inch yesterday and need to tear it down for a reblue.
I'm not sure about your specific model, but large frame Dan Wesson's are included here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Walt, I have that one. It's basically the manual that comes with the gun. What I need is a disassembly manual for it rather than try to figure it out from the Exploded view. I have to remove the cylinder and Yoke(Crane) to reblue them.
 

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Sarge the old "NRA Firearms Assembly" book has instructions for the DW W-12 .357.

I know squat about them but these drawings look like most of them.

If you have a fax PM me the number and I'll send you the page
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Charlie, I have that book, it's a great reference, problem is, the 12s and the 15s have a sideplate, this damned thing is all out the bottom alot like the new Rugers(Sp101, for example) You gotta take the grip off then stick some tool into the innerds and turn a screw inside the gun to release most of it.

Why couldn't he make it so you slap the frame handle with a screwdriver to pop the plate loose like his Daddys' guns!
 

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I was right... don't know squat

I'm not sure I've even shot a DW... surely I must have... but when they were the hot ticket with silhouette shooters I was doing bullseye and PPC.

maybe it would be easier to convince the customer that he doesn't really need a reblue... :wink:
 

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No such thing, you need to find the accessory pintle hitch & wheel kit, it's towed by the prime mover assigned :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Little update; May have a slight Crane(Yoke) problem. Looks like the cylinder is rubbing against the bottom rear of the Frame all the way at the rear. Also, is causing harder contact with the hand. you can see the rings on the Cylinder in the second photo. Numrich has the Crane for around $45.00 so, looks like I'll get one to ship with the revolver for rebluing. Actually, looks like the gun was either dropped or stepped on with the Cylinder open. Blueridge Bluing has alot of polishing to do here.

Found a set of disassembly instructions, a little complicated as everything drops out the bottom somewhat like a Ruger SP101.



 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No, these are made a little differently. Wish I could. It can't be out more than a couple thousandths, just enough to rub. I thought about trying it but, the guys on the Dan Wesson forum told me the S&W cure won't work.When you open the Cylinder, hold it up to the light and cant the top towards you a little, you can see the downward angle on the cylinder towards the back of the frame-opening. I'll try to take a photo Charlie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay Charlie,guys, what you see here is a photo looking into the frame opening,slightly canted with the Cylinder open. At the bottom you can see ,starting on the right, light vetween the Cylinder and the frame. It should be the same all the way back. Notice it disappears towards the rear of the Cylinder.
 

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I think that you're right, about "dropped or stepped upon."
Look at the second photo of your two-set.
There are abrasion marks at the front of the cylinder, at the edges of the visible flute, that look exactly like those left by contact with concrete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I may try it anyway Charlie, I'm gonna have to replace it if I can't so, what the heck. I'm thinking, since it's getting reblued, maybe a little light pry upwards at the rear. It's going to take a very light touch though, the piring-pin strikes are only slightly off-center. I'll take a pic to show you.

You can see the first three rounds better due to the light but, they're off-center. In a pistol this just means somebody used a slightly longer link to aid lockup but, in a properly-timed and indexed revolver, they're dead-center.


Even with this, it shot a 2" group,centered at 25 yards with two different shooters firing three shots each.
 

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You may want to consider a mandrel inside the yoke barrel before doing any prying/whacking. I once encountered a "fixed" gun where someone managed to distort the yoke barrel. I figured this out when the alignment spud wouldn't enter the yoke all the way. [I guess the "fixer" figured that out when the cylinder wouldn't fit on the yoke!] I managed to save it with a machined mandrel that duplicated the alignment spud but wasn't hardened & ground and had rounded edges.
 
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