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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen, I was, today, branded on another forum as a dinosaur because I use spring heights on sear-springs instead of a trigger-gauge! So, how do you use a trigger-gauge to set the springs? Old dog-new trick time.
 

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Welcome to the club...

I don't quite get how taking something off the middle leaf... which controls the disconnector... can be anything but bad but since I haven't tried it I could be wrong.

My training always involved guns for which there were absolute minimum pull weights so every one was set using certified trigger weights. Every bench had a set of them and they were inspected and certified regularly by "metrology" specialists who came from God knows where. Of course none of the weights ever changed, but felt sure that no poor slob shooting one of my guns at Camp Perry was going to be DQ'd for a light trigger. The sear leaf on the spring was a last resort for tweaking only.

Today I use one of the Lyman digital weights because they are so convenient.
 

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Gee, measuring the sear spring height never ocurred to me. What I did when I was practicing was establish a trigger spring weight of 16 oz to achieve firm contact with the properly adjusted overtravel screw. The sear was removed so that the only tension the trigger would encounter was the center leaf. If a long steel trigger was in use, a wee bit more tension was advisable.

I figured that one out all by my lonesome. I did have the opportunity to verify the practice with weapons that crossed my bench from folks like Swenson. One of his guns had a 1 7/8 lb trigger that did not follow. I studied that one for several days to include checking the sear & hammer on an optical comparator. When it went back to Swenson on an unrelated problem, it didn't return with that weight of trigger.

As long as you get the same result, does it really matter what you're measuring?
 

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In a 1999 article for Brownells, Jack Weigand described his method of using a trigger gauge to test the tension of the different legs of the sear spring. It was all part of his process in achieving a consistent 2.5 pound trigger pull for his competition pistols.

"2-½ lb. Trigger Pull" by Jack Weigand
 

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Thanks for the link. I've had some interesting conversations with Jack and he seems to have reduced everything to a "by the numbers" process with success.

Maybe it is possible with modern CNC parts where there is very little variation but I don't think that approach would have worked before then.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
See, that's the problem. I don't want a featherlight trigger-pull. I'm looking for four pound min. I don't have any Bullseye guns, mine are all carry guns. Anything less than 4 is too light AFAIC.
 

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Sarge I have had very good luck with Cylinder and Slide kits. They have several with specificed pull weights and IMX they are usually pretty close
 

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Retmsgt. said:
See, that's the problem. I don't want a featherlight trigger-pull. I'm looking for four pound min. I don't have any Bullseye guns, mine are all carry guns. Anything less than 4 is too light AFAIC.
Yes, but if you can make a reliable 2.5# trigger, a reliable 4# should be a cakewalk.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Points well-taken gentlemen.Maybe I'll try the C&S Tactical kit, it's supposed to be around four. Still wanna learn how you use that Big-A## RCBS trigger-pull gauge to set spring leafs with??????
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You were right, played around and got it. center leaf at .435(up from .415 for a Bullseye gun), left leaf at .680(up from .660 for Bullseye)- 4 pounds! Height on the grip-safety leaf stays at .135. Remember, you're measuring the sear-spring upside down with the frame-tab up, more pressure from each leaf= higher pull weight. don't try this at home, it's not the same for every spring. I was trying to overthink myself. I hate getting old, I used to remember those heights.
 
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