[m14fan308]

Gents,


I have an M1A serial number 194907, 12/12/2006 production date. Bought new in the box 6.2008, Anyway, I loaded up in the car, took her to the range today, IT WAS A DISASTER. With the sights adjusted all the way to the left, the rifle was hitting right 5 inches from POA. WHAT THE HELL, the rifle is a loaded standard with a stainless barrel. I have not purchased an M1A in a number of years, is SAI having trouble with their quality. If I pay $1700 for something I expect it to work out of the box. Anyone who has had a similar experience please share it, how it was handled and so on. Thanks, M14fan308 :shocked: :shocked: :shocked:

 

[M14man]

Since it is new, send it back to Springfield. Thay guarantee their stuff. You can't make up that error by moving the front sight over, so call them and have them look at it.

 

[ExSarge]

I too was slightly dissapointed when I got mine. The gas cylinder plug screw was loose and the stock finish was really poor. Tightened up the screw/plug and refinished the stock. M1 from SA also had a loose gas cylinder plug and the front sight was visibally off to one side. Naturally I also corrected those problems.

I still love both of them. The M1A really looks good with a nicely smooth but not shiney stock finish as does the M1. Both look better than the M! and M1A I was issued, at least as far as I can remember.

 

[planeflyer21]

Mine had a similar issue but it never got to the range. I was able to resolve the POA/POI with a laser boresighter.

I would still try and see if the issue is with the front sight's position in the dovetail. Mine was visibly off before boresighting, but I thought "SAI surely knows what they are doing at the factory."

Problems with QA abound across the whole spectrum of manufactured goods. It is a sad commentary that every product is "hit or miss" and PRIDE in one's job is circling the bowl.

Jon

 

[Tailgunner]

M14fan,
The barrel or gas cylinder could be touching the stock somewhere inside. I just got my rifle back from Hook yesterday. Although it proved centered up sights front to rear during the initial break-in , Hook said he didn't see how it shot that good. The stock needed lots of internal wood removed, front and back to get clearance. The front stock ferrule was off center and too high in the channel. It had space between the rear bottom of the receiver and the stock and the action didn't sit straight ( was canted). After Hooks build, the front sight had to be moved slightly to the left to get the rear sight to center for a NWO. Mass production stock inletting simply cannot provide the tolerances required to produce the accuracy the rifle is capable of. Other considerations ( $1600 notwithstanding ) are flash hider not in alignment, barrel not straight in the receiver ( threads or face of receiver not true , barrel channel in receiver not drilled straight) or simply a crooked barrel.
Pop off the handguard and look inside the barrel channel for any obvious areas of contact especially around the sides of the front stock ferrule. ( It should have contact at the bottom with some tension on the stock ) Good luck.

 

[m14fan308]

Guys,


The barrel appears to be straight, the timing looks ok. There appears to be a spot where the op-rod is rubbing against the stock. Now I should mention that I did do a couple of tuning tweaks on the gun, I shimmed the gas cylinder, and put in a Fulton Armory NM op-rod guide.The handguard is somewhat loose after the shimming process. Anyway, keep the advice flowing. Thanks, to all. m14fan308

 

[zsjm04]

I just purchased a new SOCOM 16. Mounted a Burris Scout scope on the forward Picatinny rail. I have bore sighted the gun twice but cannot get on the paper at 100 yards even with the scope elevation adjustment all the way maxed. Sent the scope back and it was fine. The rifle is shooting way high ( 3 feet high at 100 yards with the scope optically centered. ).

What should I do?

 

[csmkersh]

If it were me, I'd shim the front scope mount a bit.

 

[CaptainGyro]

What should I do?

You should start with the simple, and work toward the complex. It's not clear from your post, but it sounds like the first time you tried to zero this rifle it was with the scope, at 100 yards.

Start with the iron sights, at 25 yards. If you're having trouble getting on paper there, you've identified that the problem is with the rifle. Assuming you're good at 25, move out to 50, then 100. If everything is still good, you've eliminated the rifle-related problems. Now, repeat the process with the scope, and find out if the problem is with the scope or the mount.

 

[Kevin Gibson]

If it were me, I'd shim the front scope mount a bit.

This