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Discussion Starter #1
Friends,

Does anyone here make 300 Savage brass out of .308 brass & can advise me on what:
1. the "case trimming device" is technically called,
2. what to buy to do that task efficiently
AND
3. tell me who sells that item?
(I have access to LOTS of used GI brass in 7.62x51MM.)

yours, sw
 

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1.& 2 Called a case trimmer. You'll want one thats powered, not hand cranked. You will also need neck reamers to get the correct ID on the new case neck. You're also probably going to need form dies.

3. Grafs, Sinclair, Mid-Way just to name a couple off the top of my head.

Note: I don't do such things, but I've read about the folks who get into that sort of thing.
 

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SW I love that LC brass nice and thick just abit tuff the first go round on the primers.If you feel the need to offload any I might be interested.Kevin
 

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Giraud makes the fastest and most expensive.
I have a Forster hand crank kicking around somewhere. Replaced the crank with a hex head bolt and turned it with a drill motor.

Forming brass like this, you'll need to ream or turn the necks to ensure proper thickness.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
William R Moore; phantom4570,

THANKS guys.

yours, sw
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Javlin,

I, too, like Lake City brass. NICE stuff though the swaging of the primer pockets is a PITA.= Used a BUNCH of it in my USA days/DAZE.

I'll see IF I get any surplus & will advise if I do. - The Greek Royal Armory also makes NICE brass & it's cheaper.

yours, sw
 

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While I've never done it a look at the SAAMI drawings suggests that it might work. Other than the shorter case of the 300 the case neck angle for the 300 is 30 degrees while the 308 is 20.

I would run the .308 brass through the 300 full length die before trimming. I agree with Mr. Moore that you might have to neck ream but that's hard to predict and I'd try doing without it first. Fireforming should fix the neck angle and since you are only shortening the neck a bit you might not encounter any thicker portion of the brass.

I'd size the .308 brass first and then trim to 1.871. The fire forming should shorten the neck a bit but that shouldn't hurt. 1.871 is the maximum case length but you can adjust the trimming after you see the length of the first fired case.

Pick a start charge for the .300 and load one round…shoot it and measure the case every which-a- way and see where it ends up
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
CharliePetty,

THANK YOU, THANK YOU & yet again, THANK YOU.

NOTE to ALL: This weekend at the SAXET Gun-show, I bought 150+ "once fired", "polished" ,.300 Savage cases for 25 bucks. - That many should last me until I find an affordable case trimmer.

yours, sw
 

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I'm told locally the .300 Savage in the small carbine is having a hog hunting renassance. I don't hunt, too lazy and those FL swamps are intimidating.
Geoff
Who has been told some hunters have gone into Hog extermination with joy after relations/hunting partners have been injured. One I saw in the 'hood was at least as big as a black bear...scary!
 

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Stand Watie
I shoot the .300 savage in a couple of old, pre WWII Savage 99's. One is a take down that is still nice and tight. I'm shooting 150 gr bullets at moderate speeds and my brass is holding up very well. In the interest of safety, I don't size .308 to .300. I am concerned about getting .300 savage fired thru my .308 rifles. I am very careful about not getting the loaded cartridges mixed up but it takes only one. As you have found, .300 savage brass is readily available.

Shoot safe, my friend,
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Charlie Petty; DaninDayton,

FINDING fired cases in the South TX brush OR on our family's farm in the Northeast TX "bayou country" is "challenging". - The Model 760 ejects brass "smartly".
(I bought the pump to HUNT "the big lease" & the farm with.= We are "running over with" hogs all over TX.)

So, other than "sighting in" the scope that I recently found, 150 cases is just about that many shots! - Nonetheless, the 150+ cases should last me a while.

To Dan: I don't OWN a .308, so "mixing up shells" isn't a problem. = Also, as I said earlier, as a result of being Ex-TXARNG, I have a HUGE "availability of" 7.62x51 brass & am "WAY TOO CHEAP" to buy factory ammo at 1.92 each, even when any of the SA stores HAVE any. - I've looked for .300 Savage brass for 2 months and was LUCKY to find ANY brass at all. ====> the gallon plastic bag of brass that I found yesterday is out of the estate of a "well-known reloader", who lived in Castroville.

THANKS again for you advice, Gents.

yours, sw
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Skeptic49; All,

Understood. = I bought the little pump rifle to hunt the [email protected]#$%! hogs with. ===> They are EATING everything on our farm & both of our archery club's huge leases UP.
(One of the ranches is about 7,000 acres & the other is >10,000 acres and I'd bet that there is more than a hog to the acre on both ranches.)

As a narrator on the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CHANNEL said Thursday PM, "You either HAVE hogs or you WILL".

We have a lady out of OK that is trapping hogs on our place (to sell at auction) in Northeast TX & while she catches LOTS, she's NOT "making a dent" in the PLAGUE. ====> ONE fertile sow can have THIRTY pigs per year & each female is fertile at 8 months & every pig is an EATING MACHINE!!!!

So far, the largest hog off either lease is about 440 pounds, dressed. - I'm told that a boar in Brazoria County was recently taken that weighed 680 pounds, dressed.

yours, sw
 

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Should you need or want some help thinning the herd, you can probably get volunteers from the board.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
William R. Moore,

SADLY, I must tell you that you need NOT come to TX for feral pigs, as they are EVERYWHERE except Northern AK. =====> Some northern PARKS are being over-run with these [email protected]#$%^&!
(Here in South TX, some ranchers are PAYING hunters to come kill their "unwanted porcine guests". = Some as much as 75.oo each!)

My "www friend", "Guide Girls", AKA: "Texas MOST dedicated huntress & horizontal archer", is CHARGING "city hunters" 50 bucks each head to take hogs AND is getting 75.oo each from the landowner, too. = The SAT after Turkey Day, a group of 5 "city kitties from Houston" killed 22 hogs. = That's 2750.oo to Wendy for ONE DAY!
(I've laughingly told "Wendy" that she, "has a license to steal".)

yours, sw
 

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I wish I had seen this thread when it was running and I would have told you how to make a 300 Confederate Sharpshooter.

For sure you can do interesting things. For instance if you want to get the most life out of a new barrel. Lets say you have a 26" 30 cal barrel you can first run in a 300 Savage Reamer and headspace it. Then run in a 30.06 reamer to make the neck longer. Size 308 cases down in 300 Savage case trim die, fireform and shoot it about 2500 rounds and set it back and do it again and again. When barrel gets down to 24" just run a 30.06 reamer in all the way and chamber for 30.06 thus you can get four chamberings off the same barrel. The 300 Savage job I named 300 Confederate Sharpshooter.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hummer,

THANKS.

WHAT I NEED is someone who will sell/barter me 500 GOOD quality 140-160 grain .309 GC cast boolits for my little .300 Savage pump-gun.

My landlord is a JACKASS of the 1st order & won't let me cast ANYWHERE (even out-of-doors) on this property, on pain of immediate eviction & I don't have another available area to cast.

yours, sw
 

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or cozy up to someone who has a horse/horses- now before you laugh/dismiss; hear me out
horses need shoes; shoes need FARRIERS or BLACKSMITHS; blacksmiths or farriers have this thing called a forge; it's not in operation 24/7; so there should be some "down time" available- your "kit" probably doesn't amount to any more than a couple of shoeboxes, so you can throw the thing in your trunk- a friend of mine is a farrier and he has a full forge on the back of one of those ute trailers and drags it behind his pick-up- nobody SAYS you have to cast at home- and don't tell me there's no horses in texas-
and his forge will have FULL VENTILATION( if you know how a forge works it's probably a better set up than most folks have for ventilation) just WATCH YOUR TEMPERATURE OF YOUR MOULD AS WELL- the forge is well capable of melting BOTH your lead and the mold- just get the blacksmith /farrier to show you how-
 

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Discussion Starter #19
t-star,

GOOD IDEA. = NEVER would have thought of that. =====> MUCHAS GRACIAS, Senor.

yours, sw
 

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addendum to that- you might also want to check out the amish/hutterite/Mennonite colonies if there are any in your area- those folks depend on having a blacksmith as an integral part of the community- if he's working a job like making a wheel or something, there might be enough collateral heat for you to smelt/cast lead WHILE he's working the steel- ie on the shelf right beside him on the forge
 
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