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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I'm new to the site, and new to the Garand. My brother gave me a .308 "Tanker".
I've replaced the op rod with one from Fulton Armory, works great, however, I cannot get the clips to seat, so after reading some posts, I've ordered a new op rod spring. Here is my questions, because the op rod spring is tapered on one end, which end goes into the op rod, and which end goes on the follower rod? Sorry for the stupid questions, but I don't know, and I can't seem to find the information. Thanks in advance......Clint
 

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Welcome aboard Clint, this is a good place for Garand info, you've come to the right place - Nice service rifle community here :)
 

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A weak clip latch spring can cause enblock clips to pop out. Do they seat and come out or is something causing them not to seat?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is what I don't understand. I replaced the op rod because it had been repaired, and it wouldn't function correctly, it was binding, however the clips would seat just fine. After I replaced the op rod, it functions nicely, however, now the clips won't seat. I can use both thumbs to push the clips in, but they will not seat. I also had a hard time getting the op rod spring to go into the op rod, but finally got it to go in. I measured both op rods, just to make sure they were the same length, and both were.
 

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clint Welhelm,

WELCOME ABOARD. - LOTS of real Garand EXPERTS here.

yours, sw
 

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First check is the clip latch.
That's the lever with the square head on the left side of the receiver.
If the spring is weak, or the latch is out of position, or the latch is defective, the clip won't lock in.

Next check is to check the bullet guide and op rod catch assembly to insure it's all assembled correctly and nothing is broken or worn.

Check the op rod spring to insure it or the recoil spring follower aren't too long and are preventing the bolt from moving all the way to the rear.
The rear of the op rod section right behind the tube section should butt against the front of the receiver when the bolt is fully open.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
op rod

Okay, after taking my Garand apart and checking to see if all of the parts are installed correctly, and after looking at parts diagrams on the internet, I have found that all parts are installed correctly. I can put the clip in and it will lock in, but the op rod has to be released from the locked back position and held til the clip locks in, then the bolt will close, chambering a round. Is this normal? Thanks in advance......Clint
 

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Hello all,
I'm new to the site, and new to the Garand. My brother gave me a .308 "Tanker".
Rereading this post.

Keep in mind the Tanker was never an issued weapon. A few prototypes were built but it was never mass produced and there's no military specification so dimensions may vary.

Are the tanker oprods shortened versions of M1 oprods? Did you get an M1 spring or a spring for a tanker? I expect the M1 spring is longer than the spring for a tanker. A longer spring on a shorter oprod could cause the problems you describe.
 

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phantom4570,

I was told by the curator of the USA Ordance Museum that the "tanker" was NOT intended for use in the tank corps. - Instead MOST were converted in ordance depots in the CBI Theater of WWII for "jungle warfare use".

FEW were "converted", as the "tankers" were NOT all that much more compact than a Garand AND they were "a lot of trouble to build" according to the curator, USAORDMU.

yours, sw
 

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Okay, after taking my Garand apart and checking to see if all of the parts are installed correctly, and after looking at parts diagrams on the internet, I have found that all parts are installed correctly. I can put the clip in and it will lock in, but the op rod has to be released from the locked back position and held til the clip locks in, then the bolt will close, chambering a round. Is this normal? Thanks in advance......Clint
The M1 should work in the following manner.

Lock the bolt all the way back.
Insert a clip until it locks in place.
As soon as it locks and you ease up on your fingers, the bolt should move forward just a fraction of an inch.
Then you bump the op rod handle with the heel of your hand to close the bolt.

Very few M1's will close without the bump. Watch some of the old films on the History or Military channel and you'll see GI's doing the "M1 bump".

The shorter M1 was actually requested by General Gavin and the other paratrooper commanders. They thought the M1 Carbine was ineffective and unreliable. Gavin in particular hated it after his failed him in Sicily.
They requested a shorter M1 rifle that would be easier to jump assembled.

Springfield Arsenal built a couple and decided the muzzle blast was too intense.
By the time they started to consider what to do, the war had ended.

In the Pacific, by the time the "Tanker" was under consideration, the fighting was on true desert atoll islands, not on jungle islands. There, a shorter M1 would have been of no real use.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Op rod

I just wanted to say thanks to all whom responded to my posts, I greatly appreciate the information you all have shared, and I value all of your expericence with the Garand. Secondly, my "tanker" looks identical to the photos you posted.
Thirdly, I replaced the op rod and spring, bullet guide, follower, follower rod, op rod catch, and pin, now the clips lock in without excessive force, the bolt closes, chambering a round just like it supposed to, now all I need to do is go to the range and see how it shoots, I will let you know how it performs. I'm kind of excited to see how it does shoot, and if all goes well, I may purchase another one, so thanks again to all......Clint
 
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