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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, recently Gun Digest ran a 30%-off-almost-everything sale, so I snagged the complete digital collection of our former boardmate Patrick Sweeney's (anyone ever hear from him anymore?) books on the AR-15, plus Kevin Muramutsu's customizing guide, and started taking some notes to plan a build from.

Operator biomechanics: Three probable operators, fourth possible.
--Operator #1 (me) is 5'6", ~200# +/- (right now a skosh more "+" than I wanna admit to), limited pectoral/upper-body strength and a very difficult shoulder to make a stock fit to. The only southpaw of the group,
--Operator #2 (my mother) is same height, almost 60, probably high 300-low 400# range--definitely well into Morbidly Obese (let's put it this way, literally calves as big around as my head and a torso somewhere between half-again and double the total mass of my own on similar spine-length), thinks shopping for groceries is the Bataan Death March.
--Operator #3 (my aunt) is around 5'8", late sixties, low to mid 300#s. Gout issues, old right-elbow injury. Of the three of us, probably middle of the "Least Unfit" ranking. Fairly active, her day-job as a paraeducator routinely involves herding rugrats around the school playground, and despite being the oldest of my grandparents' three kids I expect her to be the longest-lived.
--Operator #4, the "possible," is 5'10", mid-forties, 150-160#-ish (if you must know, 36-30-40 measurements). Low center of gravity (she's a bit pear-shaped but not portly or obese like the rest of us, just carries her weight more in the butt and hips) and blown-out knees. Has handled bolt-action rifles before with fair accuracy. Might have longer fingers, the rest of us have short stubby mini-baseball-bats for digits.

Build goal: Primarily a non-NFA Home Defense carbine, able to turn in good performance in competition would be nice but is second to "Practical Application." Starting with more "economy class" parts and gradually upgrading is possible, but I'd like to have a roadmap for each step up the ladder as upgrades go on and I work toward that "best possible fit" end goal in around $100-150 increments. Considering a polymer receiver for weight reduction; also very big on starting with an 80% PCR--all of us around the house know our way around basic machine tools, and I'm hoping that having my relatives do their own work on these will help foster Pride of Ownership and a stronger interest in caring for their own creations. (Tends to run in the family, things we buy are more readily "throwaway" but things we build we tend to hold onto sometimes longer and harder than we should.)

The concepts...
1. I'm thinking a 16" barrel for compactness in HD--we have narrow hallways and tight quarters; suppressors are not an option for paperwork-PITA reasons, and I'm thinking a muzzle-heavy build should have some of the same effect as a compensator without all the nasty flash and noise. (If YOU think firing an AR at night and indoors would suck, imagine what it'd be for my sensitive eyes and ears! I have to wear polarized lenses under most normal lighting conditions, and can sometimes hear some dog-whistles.) Mid or possibly full-length (if possible) gas system for recoil mitigation, Direct Impingement for less moving parts to fight with. Chrome-lining is a must if not stainless, preferably 4150 or ETD 150 carbon-steel (yes, I know Milspec's only 4140) or for stainless 416 or precipitation-hardened 17-3 alloys. Of course, it has to be a 5.56 NATO barrel (which will handle vanilla .223 Rem better than the other way around) with a 1:9 twist rate--I don't see this thing running 69-grain Sierra MatchKings beyond at most once in a *very* long while if at all.

2. As noted, I'm looking at both polymer lowers to reduce weight and PCR's for the "No S***, *I* built this?" factor, and just happen to have found a plastic PCR that I'm considering--do any of you guys have a rep-check on the crew at Polymer80.com? Their "Buy-Build-Shoot" PCR+parts-kit package does have a certain "quick start" appeal, even though I'd want to upgrade to a full-on 5.56 NATO barrel ASAP rather than rely on an uncertain ".223/5.56".

3. I really like LMT's Monolithic Rail Platform as a concept (despite the added weight), but one look at the sticker-price darn near had me having to shove my guts back up my backside--two of those uppers ALONE, with no other parts, could buy an OK used car, or enough decent entry-level complete ARs to equip the entire homestead plus set one aside for my gal when she gets a chance to visit. (Angle: Visiting her relatives in BC got her bit by the shooting bug, and I'm hoping setting the hook into full addiction will help make the idea of settling down with me on this side of the border more attractive. Don't they say "the couple that shoots together STAYS together"? :) ) Tangent aside, if the MRP's worth putting on the roadmap it has to go on as a "stepping stones up to" item with lesser quad-rail forearms and flat-top uppers being gradually upgraded toward it--I figure aside from the initial drop on the basic build, I'll be about to throw maybe $100 at a time at this project. I know Sweeney and Muramutsu mentioned quad-rails from Hera Arms of Germany (heavier, steel, typical German overengineer) along with Daniel Defense's Omega Rail and Midwest's Gen 2, and I know Yankee Hill makes one--the question is, what's the line between an economical "starter part" vs. something fit only for airsoft toys. Definitely want a free-float handguard, though.

4. Sights: The three of us are all nearsighted--my aunt needs bifocals and my prescription is so far gone that I'd be considered "Aircrew Ineligible" by the Air Force. I'm a big fan of co-witnessed BUIS'es paired with a holosight or red-dot--thinking I'm gonna ask you guys to recommend your "Top Fives" of each, then go with what seems to be consistently recommended "in the pack". (We each have our own favorite #1s, but if there's a consensus on #2 that's a pretty strong endorsement in its own right unless there's a stronger one on #1.) #4's never filled me in on her prescription type, but corrective optics are known in her case too.

5. Grips: I'm not sure how rifle biomechanics compare to pistol, but if it helps to know I'm one of those oddballs who handles 1911s better with an arched mainspring housing than without--and I can't hit the broad side of a barn with a Glock and a Beretta 92/96 hurts my wrist just to LOOK at never mind shoot. My gut is suggesting I should look for a grip with 1911-like ergonomics, but I thought I'd better ask for a double-check on that--for the others, I need to somehow drag them into a shop and try things on for fit.

6. Stock: definitely collapsible--my ideal would be a combo telestock/folder but that takes way more buffer and bolt-carrier machining/fab/cutting work than any of us are up for. I'm assuming with that range of sizes and weights, I'd need to have some pretty extreme length-of-pull variation from crammed-up-against-receiver for my mother out to near full extension for my gal. Given my love of "on-board storage", I'm thinking something similar to an Vltor Modstock or IMOD, not the longer EMOD.

The ideal upper I'm thinking would be a flattop or monolithic rail, bearing a long DI gas system (mid or full) on a 16" chrome-lined lightweight-profile barrel with flash hider (Sweeney recommends the Vortex), with the rails ending about 1" from the muzzle or possibly dead even with it, assuming that wouldn't create any kind of safety risk from muzzle proximity, flash, etc.

Any suggestions as far as what to start assembly with, what to set as "goal" or what to use as intermediate steps in between? Bear in mind, you're dealing with primarily a WWII-issue guy who until recently has neither known nor wanted to know much about AR's beyond the basics of the operating controls and major subassemblies just in case... so the rookie needs an "AR's for Complete IDIOTS" crash-course :) , hopefully without all the BS from a particular asshat relative I don't speak of's douchewaffle ilk at Barfcom or whatever the hell they call it.
 

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A S&W Sporter is running about $570 locally. Do you really need an ultra light weight rifle which will only be maybe 2 lbs lighter?

Geoff
Who notes he changed things on his SWaMPy 15 Sporter and made it heavier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ultra-light, not particularly, except maybe if I were building the Old Crab (my mother's a Cancer, and she first applied the label to herself so all I'm doing is picking up HER ball and running with it! :p ) a dedicated one... but here around Sodom & Gomorrah on Puget Sound that same S&W is closer to $800 on-the-shelf, and between transfer fees and the various taxes on firearms transfers an out-of-state transfer ends up costing just as much as if not more than the jacked-up ripoff local prices. Yet one more on the long list of reasons why Seattle Metro positively effing BLOWS...

Let's put it this way, the kind of shape my mother's in, she gets winded just carrying her company-issue laptop case out to the car. (Which also means I'm assuming that if it ever becomes HD Game Day, it's more probably going to be my aunt backing me up even with old age, deaf in one ear and gout.) I, on the other hand, not just have to deal with schlepping her crap for her most mornings, but a few hours when I start my own day I haul a 40-50# "field office" between the laptop, array of hard drives, Old Ugly plus half a dozen preloaded spare mags and an extra brick of ammo... and as a nondriver I get to fight with dragging it to and from bus stops, the good news being the heap of crap piles into wheels nicely. Point there, I'm used to heavier loads, though I do have to stop to rest and recaffeinate more often than I'd like to admit.
 

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The poly receivers aren't well tested and the AR vents hot gasses into the upper. Methinks does not bode well for long life.

I've got the DMR barrel profile. Given the strength issues you note, try a pencil barrel profile, 16 inch is good. You don't need quad rails. Go with a flat top, mount the optic on the receiver. I used a Troy fixed battle rear sight for the A1 type of fail safe adjustment and a A2 front sight tower & sight for simplicity and to have the Irons instantly available.

My father used to try the cheap version of a tool and then buy a good version. That approach is a waste of money. Save up, buy quality and cry only once.

Having said that the Aimpoint PRO is the best buy. That said, Vortex has a decent sight for about 1/2 the cost, but doesn't have the battery life (50,000 hours) or track record.

If you're looking at anything but a range toy, you need a dust cover. The FA is optional.
 

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If I didn't have a sudden house full of kids disposing of my disposable income, I'd strongly consider one of these.

"Thomas also told the paper the safety selector that controls the Crusader's trigger has three settings: Peace, War and God Wills It."
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Walt, cool toy, great for the range for competition, asking for trouble if used in Home Defense with those markings though. Remember Mas's point about Ambulance Chasers and aggressive-sounding weapons like "Persuader" and "Pit Bull"?

Wouldn't mind one in the 3-gun toybox, either... :)
 

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ARs and their stuff are so highly personalized these days that I hesitate to give any advice at all, beyond the following two points:

1. I don't want anything that can't be fixed (i.e., kept operational) with common USGI/generic parts.

2. If you must have a 16" barrel, get one with the Midlength gas system (Rock River, and now some others, make them). This is just a "better mousetrap" in every way, the ONLY downside being that not everyone makes handguards to fit it. (Yes, I know this kinda sorta violates Rule 1 a little.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Tim B. and Walt, like I said this is the downside of being trapped in Commiefornia del Norte... this may seem cold, but if I can't get the relatives onboard with a move to greener pastures before their passing it's the first order of business after they're laid to rest. Maybe stage with my folks back in Indiana while I reestablish myself; I hate the summer heat, winter cold and tornado crap but it'd make the trip to visit the (currently) prospective in-laws a lot easier at least.

Snake, the big reason for thinking 16" is we have some very tight quarters (there are places in the hallways where the Old Crab almost completely fills it wall-to-wall, and it's even awkward for me at 36" elbow-to-elbow). Definitely not a carbine system, and the only reason I leaned Mid was I wasn't sure if a Full would fit and work. A 14.5 with perma-pinned-and-silver-soldered flash-hider to make legal 16" would help with length, but... it's a little outside my shop skill.

T-star, remember HK doesn't like selling to civilians? :) ("HK, Because you SUCK and we HATE YOU," as Larry Correia memed.) Besides, I have to deal with people who second-guess how much I spend on freakin' *toilet paper,* not caring that the amount that I've had to modify my high-efficiency low-residue diet that was specifically designed around my various digestive quirks in order to accommodate their various culinary whims turns me into a walking fertilizer factory. (Yes, my friends, I just straight-up admitted to being full of shit... though not in the way y'all might have thought. LOL) So if my monthly *TP* budget, which ain't a lot, gets Armchair Quarterbacked, you can see why despite the greater long-term cost breaking the project down into smaller chunks will let me sneak it past the accountants a lot easier. (One would swear they've been promised a cut of the balance in my trust fund should I kick the bucket or something... never mind that it's an almost laughably small one.)
 

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I've dealt with people who have injuries/weak upper body issues and defense long guns, so speaking only to that use:

My advice is "Simple is Better", "Lighter is Better".
Recoil from a 55 grain standard load has little enough recoil most people don't notice it much.
Load it with PROVEN RELIABLE American made premium 55 grain soft point hunting ammo.
These have little recoil but will still blow Godzilla's lights out when the soft point hits.

Don't worry about noise. If you're shooting a 5.56 in an enclosed area no load is going to make any difference.
Just train with good hearing protection.
Most people involved in real shooting scrapes never really remember hearing the gun until it's all over and notice the ringing in the ears.
If you or your family is involved in a shooting, ringing ears will be the least of your worries.

I'd look at a light "pencil" barrel carbine with a standard flat top upper and a standard hand guard.
Colt's light barrel carbine weighs in at around 5.5 pounds which is about as light as it gets. I'd go with something similar.
A heavier barrel is not needed for home defense. Shooting Matches is where it's nice, but even then you can get by with a light barrel.
Use the lightest possible stock that's adjustable to fit the different people.
The lightest stock is usually the standard M4 type that ships on all Colt's and adjusts.

Forget all the fancy hand guards and mounts, just buy the best red dot sight you can afford and mount it on the top of the receiver.
For the money, a lot of people like the $200 SPARC II.
With the light set on the lowest setting you get about 8,000 hours on the battery.
If you can step up to the $400 to $500 Aimpoint models you can get up to 80,000 hours.
This is so good, that the military simply turn the sight on and leave it on at all times. They'll change the battery once a year just because they're cheap.
For a cheap dot sight, the Bushnell TRS.25 costs about $80 from Amazon, and has a 3,000 hour battery life.
For the price it's impossible to beat. People are reporting that these stand up to use with 12 gauge shotgun slugs.
Read the customer reviews on Amazon. You get a very few bad, and lots and lots of great.

This is one of those things you really don't need to over-think.
The lightest carbine with the simplest form, fitted with a good red dot sight is just what you really need.
Everything else will add weight and bulk and usually actually makes it slower and more difficult to use, especially for a weaker person.

I also question the strength and longevity of plastic uppers and lowers.
Aluminum is light enough and far stronger.
Plastic may be okay for limited use but you're going to get egg-shaped trigger and hammer pin holes pretty soon with much real use and the uppers don't play well with heat.
I've heard reports of problems with barrel nuts staying secure with plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Agreed, I was only looking at plastic on a lower--my understanding is the upper's where the real work happens, and that's gonna be aluminum no matter what. Even that, I was partially thinking "trial run" for learning to work on aluminum ones--if it worked out, light-duty casual plinker for the range (possibly even paired with a dedicated .22LR upper), if not I wouldn't be out as much time and labor as borking over the real deal and possibly my shop tools.
 

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Unless I missed it (and I might have) no one has mentioned what I consider to be one of the best features of the AR platform: it takes about forty seconds to swap uppers. That means you don't have to settle for just one configuration.

If I was about to step off into the wild, wonderful world of EBR's I'd start with a tough, milspec lower from a reputable manufacturer. (Since they make precision aluminum aircraft parts and are reputed to be the OEM supplier for many "manufacturers", I'm partial to Aero Precision. If you buy one that has someone else's name on it, there's a decent chance Aero Precision made it.)

Once you've got your quality lower receiver, go ahead and get what you think you'll need for the upper. Be comforted in the fact that it's hard to make a serious mistake; even if you're not completely happy with your first one, you'll be wiser when you get the second...and third...and so forth.
 

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I lost 2 posts to the bleeping time-out feature on this site.

That said, I'll point out that Wallyworld is getting out of the EBR business. This means they may well be having blow out sales on what's in stock. I can personally vouch for Rock River, S&W (by extension Stag, since they did the early S&W). John Farnam and some others I trust speak highly of Sabre Tech and DSA. Sig supposedly does good ones too. In general, I'll endorse Snakes comments-except that the RRA midlength comes with the DMR barrel profile, which seems containdicated by physical condition.

Having seen some other "name makes" fail spectacularly in my former employment, I limit my recommendations to those above. I don't suggest Colt as their warranty sucks rocks.

I'm also going to point out that by the time you accumulate all the tools and gauges, the first DIY is going to cost about the same as a factory build. I'll also note that negotiating the wide availability/quality of the parts world isn't for the faint of heart and/or wallet. If you just have to go that way, some reputable makers do make parts kits, where they supply the parts, you supply the labor. Remember WARRANTY!!!!! Factory has, are you going to sue yourself?

I'd skip soft points in the AR design. The full copper slugs are CA legal and barrier blind. If you can use evil lead containing slugs, the ones with plastic tips feed very well and also have very good terminal performance. BTW, the 1-9 twist barrel does it all unless you have dreams of 600 yard across the course rifle matches. Handles the Hornaday 75 gr HPBT in outstanding fashion too (not A-Max).

Don't forget to budget for a light & mount. I used a $6 rail section 2" long, a $20 ring mount and a SureFire 630 lumen light. Total expenditure about $100, if doing just indoors, you can cut the light power.
 

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On hearing protecton: find electronic muffs for defensive use. You can hear the bad folks and each other, little or no hearing damage. Shop around. They're much cheaper than hearing aids- a buddy paid $1400 each to correct for his bilateral hearing loss.

The stuff about "you won't hear the gunshots/have hearing damage" is highly variable and sometimes pure bull droppings. My former employer had to file employment related injury reports with OSHA on my last physical due to my hearing loss.
 

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well, i'll tell you this TAVOR I run is well worth the money, even if I did have to convert it to left hand operation- I know it's expensive, but then again i'm known for thinking out side the bos- my 22 is a beretta neos, my 223 for cqb is a tavor, I got a nylon 66 22 rifle- c where this is going? don't restrict your thinking to ar platforms - as for the tavor- it's just like art savage used to say- as easy as pointing your finger
 

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The stuff about "you won't hear the gunshots/have hearing damage" is highly variable and sometimes pure bull droppings. My former employer had to file employment related injury reports with OSHA on my last physical due to my hearing loss.
Like any time you pull the trigger on something besides paper you get tunnel vision and audio exclusion BUT the decibels are still there and the damage too if you don't have plugs or muffs. Me? On the range I use both but I waited too late. Some days the ringing is annoying as Hell. Been that way for 50 plus years. I got my first set of ear plugs not for shooting but because I was a passenger on a Hughie. I quickly figured out if it worked there, it'd work for trigger work.
 
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