[seanl]

Greetings all...

I bought a 6 digit Garand at a local gunshow here in NorCal back in the Spring and I'm having some problems with it. I'm using the Greek surplus ammo that comes in the tin cans enbloc.

I've taken it to the range 3 times and every time the op rod has dettached from the bolt. The first time it happened the Rangemaster had to spend 15 minutes figuring out how to get it freed (it was jammed out of the op rod channel) so we could ensure the rifle was unloaded.

After it happened the first time, I brought the gun back to the guy I bought it from and he graciously swapped out the op rod for one with less wear on the lugs.

During outing #2, after ~100 rounds during a 3 hour session, that op rod detached from the bolt but at least it stayed in the channel, so I was easily able to get everything working again.

I then bought a rebuilt op rod from the seller and we changed the spring. So yesterday during outing #3 I took the rifle to the local range and after only 40 rounds or so the op rod deattached from the bolt and popped out of the channel. As soon as it happend I noted that the bolt was closed with a live round in the chamber. I was able to get the op rod back into the channel and onto the bolt lugs, but something is wrong with this rifle.

The rifle has an LMR barrel and seems to be accurate, attached is a pic of 6 rounds at 50 yards (bench rest).

[IMG=left]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1774/5575/202404.jpg[/IMG]

Any advice, comments, or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Sean L

 

[30Cal]

Sounds like the oprod tab is worn out/ unservicible (in both cases).

It's possible that the receiver is a reweld and that it's just not straight. You should be able to spot some obvious discoloration, stray grinding marks, and other signs of poor workmanship if that's the case. The easy way to tell is if the rev# at the front of the receiver doesn't jive with the serial number.

 

[Cowboy]

Take a look at the op rod tab (the square that fits in the channel). See if its worn. The more square it is, the better. That's the problem you are hoping for, ie, the cheapest to fix.

If the op rod tab looks good, then 30Cal has probably identified the problem---the rifle is a re-weld. The best thing to do is get all the numbers off the receiver, post them here, and let somebody with some M1 books see if its a re-weld. That's the problem you really don't want.

 

[JAS]

There is one other possibility. The op-rod track in the side of the receiver could be worn oversize. I have a Winchester receiver that came from the CMP and is not welded, that has a badly worn op-rod track. So much so that a new in spec tab will not hold the track all of the time. The solution was to hand fit an oversized tab to the receiver. This rifle has now fired over a thousand rounds without a single op-rod dismount.

I mention this only as a last resort possibility. You should eliminate the other possibilities stated above first. Without seeing what you have, I suspect that you are dealing with a series of op-rods with varying degrees of wear. Sending the most worn out op-rod you have to Jim Swartz for a complete rebuild might be your solution. To have an oversize tabed op-rod fitted to a worn receiver I would suggest Dean Dillabaugh at DGR.

 

[seanl]

Thanks guys. I've seen pics of rewelded recievers, and mine does not appear to have any marks to indicate a re-weld

Serial#: 3459xx

on the right hand side of the reciever:

R E P 1 6
D 28291-13 SA

Oprod #3 (D35382 9 SA) which I bought from the seller was just reconditioned and the tab looked good.

I have some M1 books myself, and according to Duff's Data Sheet 6.16 my Sept-Oct 1941 serial number should have drawing # D 28291-13, which it does. So this should rule out a reweld, correct?

Thanks,
Sean

 

[Blood of Tyrants]

Well, if it matches (not likely but not impossible) and you can see no sign of welding, then it is probably not welded.

Now, an incorrectly indexed barrel COULD cause the op rod to be under unnatural stresses. Can you pop a laser in the chamber and check it out?

 

[Burgie]

Op-rod jump

Hello this problem was in another post here, you may want to read about it.

Let us know what you tried and how it works for you.

Burgie

http://www.ambackforum.com/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=

 

[USMA84DAB]

Not to be ugly here, but did any one think about asking if he has GREASED the rifle - I shot a rifle to oprod blow-off because no one ever taught me to use grease for lubrication vs. break free.

USMA84DAB

 

[seanl]

I'm using lubriplate 130a and have been shown how to properly lube the Garand.

I'm working with the gentlemen I bought it from (Garand/Carbine collector dealer) to resolve.

I'll post an update shortly.

SeanL

 

[Retmsgt.]

If it's doing this with more than one Op-rod I think we can safely rule that out.

first, take a look at the front and rear sights, is the front way to one side? Or the rear? Properly indexed the front should be centered and the rear no more than two or three clicks out. If it's much more than that BoT is probably right, it's not properly indexed. This throws the whole geometry of the the gas system off and binds the Op-rod.

If that's okay then, JAS has the answer. I've seen several of the older SA receivers with worn tracks, it's not as uncommon as one would think.

 

[LtBlue425]

Garand receivers are tough but they can wear out. I examined a heavily used match Garand whose receiver was so worn you could pop the rod off pretty much anywhere on track.

 

[30Cal]

If it's doing this with more than one Op-rod I think we can safely rule that out.

first, take a look at the front and rear sights, is the front way to one side? Or the rear? Properly indexed the front should be centered and the rear no more than two or three clicks out. If it's much more than that BoT is probably right, it's not properly indexed. This throws the whole geometry of the the gas system off and binds the Op-rod.

If that's okay then, JAS has the answer. I've seen several of the older SA receivers with worn tracks, it's not as uncommon as one would think.

If he had used a NEW oprod, then we could rule out the oprod tab. He used a refurbished oprod which is certainly not above suspicion.

Ty

 

[Retmsgt.]

Agreed Ty but, he tried three different op-rods. Of course, it's not out of the realm of possibility that all three could be bad. Servicable Op-rods are getting harder and harder to find.

 

[30Cal]

That's true.

Another possiblity? The lug on the bolt is unservicible: due to repeated dismounts, it is rounded to the point that it forces the rod away from the receiver?

 

[seanl]

Update on OPROD Problem

Turns out that the op rod track was worn out of spec. I guess this Sept '41 receiver was well used....or rather, used up.

The seller, a local Bay Area Garand Collector, was a truly honorable gentleman, who felt so bad that he sold me a defective Garand that he swapped out my rifle for another one out of his collection...no additional money exchanged hands

My replacement Garand is a post war CMP gun (bought Oct 01, I have the CMP Cert of Authenticity) in excellent condition, serial# 5379xxx, barrel dated 7 54, gauged MW @ 1, TE @ 3. Parkerizing is all original and very nice. Gun appears to be all original other than the stock, which is a new atermarket Boyd's that he put on it. I would have preferred a really nice USGI stock, but as this is my first Garand I wanted a good looking shooter, not necessarily a collectible if you know what I mean. From what I've read, the post war serial numbers didn't see as much use and abuse as the WWII rifles.

So I now have a much nicer rifle than I started with and will be taking it out to the range ASAP.

Thanks everyone for all your helpful advice. I was very fortunate to have a very reputable local seller who was willing make good on a rifle he didn't even know was defective.

For those interested, here are some pics of my new Garand :hypercolor:
[IMG=left]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1774/5575/207069.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG=left]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1774/5575/207070.jpg[/IMG]