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Electrochemical bore cleaner

I use the Outers Foul Out 2 to get the copper out. It costs more than your ammonia solution, but it does not foam out, and it does not damage the wood finish. I use duct tape to plug the gas port, and their chamber plug fits just fine.

All my rifles shoot much better when the copper is removed.
 
Phil Mcgrath,
I have cleaned so bores have no fouling left and all 4 of my M1's require a few "fouling shots" to shoot good. They are not match rifles so I don't know if a new or match barreled rifle would make a difference.
 
Hands down, the best copper remover on the market is Montana Extreme's 50BMG.

Don
 
Phil McGrath said:
Does anyones rifle shoot any better groups after this treatment and is your barrel easier too clean??
Phil , I worked for about eight hours with an electro-type cleaner on a High Standard barrel that was horribly fould with nickel . It began with groups over eight inches and is down to two and three inch groups now . accuracy lasts much longer now too . At first it would hold the group for about ten shots , now I've run over a hundred through it and it seems to work normal for a barrel fould with copper .

Jack
 
They work great, but you better be REALLY sure that you've got the polarity right, or you can quickly ruin a barrel as did my neighbor. Took him about ten minutes and it cost him a new barrel.

I've had really good luck with the one I made!
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
citori3 said:
What is the correct polarity?
The rifle barrel hooked to the positive (+) side of the battery and the negative (-) hooked up to the steel rod you put in the barrel.

What exactly did the reverse polarity do cadillo?
 
Some questions tregarding the electrode method:

Is ammonia the best solution to use?

Someone mentioned vinegar. Does that work?

Will a galvanized rod work? Brass? Home Depot's selection was pretty picked over.
 
Brass contains copper, so it would not be a good material to use as any copper dissolving solution will attack it as well. At the very least this will diminish the effectiveness.

Not knowing what galvanizing is composed of I won't guess on that. You might be able to just steel-wool the galvanized coating off to get a pure steel rod.

Ammonia is highly affective at removing copper. I haven't tried much else, and it does have that nasty wood finish removing problem so I won't say it's the "best." I've tried vinegar and it seemed to work just as well on powder fouling. I don't know about copper since that barrel was pretty much clear of that.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
My *GUESS* is the ammonia removes the copper - it's very good at that, but it's also an alkali (NH4OH) due to the OH. Vinegar is actually acetic acid, so maybe it neutralizes the Ph.
 
Some tips for the homemade cleaner I found

Should you use vinegar

The vinegar is for all intents a 5% solution of acetic acid, which is a dilute solution of a relatively weak acid. The acetic acid has an affinity for lead and will form a lead acetate, which is also a polar compound, that would migrate to the cathode also. Only problem I see is the two compounds, ammonia and acetic acid, are a alkali base and weak acid respectively and the combination of the two greatly diminishes the reaction of either with the fouling. I would suggest the use of the ammonia in a weapon that uses copper clad bullets and the acetic acid for weapons using lead bullets. Neither compound will adversely affect the steel barrel if used infrequently and with low voltage.
 
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